Sometimes when we look at the varnish coating of our painting work, we are horrified to notice the presence of foreign bodies on the outer coating. Inclusions on the surface of the base under the clearcoat are a misfortune, because such inclusions can only be removed by re-varnishing. The advantage of modern clearcoats is the possibility of topcoating without matting within 24 hours of the original painting.

The conclusion is that when painting with the base, you should keep your eyes open and watch the surface all the time to see if any nasty dust lands on the surface. When it lands, we have two options: if you manage to remove it with a wet needle and the place spills or requires a little refilling - that's very good. If the place is damaged, we have to wait until it dries, then gently sand with a fine wet paper, remove the dust with a dust-absorbing cloth and replenish the base on the repaired place. A locally repaired base can be covered with a colorless varnish, provided that it does not cut off the rest of the varnished area. Damage that is easier to repair will be the inclusions of dust or particles in the outer coating, quite easy to remove by grinding. Grinding materials will help in removing them, provided that the particles are not deeply immersed in the varnish layer, remember that the clear varnish layer is only 50 - 60 µm. After sanding with the appropriate paper grades, polish with polishing paste, using a suitable sponge. With large-size stains, the so-called the signature of the varnisher, unfortunately, after drying, the fragment must be sanded and re-painted - after insulation - carefully so as not to repeat the mistake.

Polishing the varnish is the last stage of the painter's work and is supposed to give the varnished part the same appearance as the untreated parts. The idea is to remove the "orange peel" effect and bring the shine to the desired state. Removal of possible varnish errors is possible to a limited extent, as mentioned above. A suitable tool is a rotary polisher with speed stabilization and an eccentric function (and not, for example, a screwdriver or angle grinder) with sponges of different hardness, a fur or cotton pad. Suitable materials, pastes and lotions for this. Of course, the painter knows the product sheets (and if he does not, he should read them) and how to use the materials used. A fairly common mistake is to take the painted and dried elements outside, outside the workshop hall. The sun and wind effectively make it difficult or even impossible to properly carry out the polishing process. Sand particles can cause scratches and damage to the clearcoat layer instead of obtaining the desired smoothness and gloss of the repaired part. Polishing should take place in a hall with stable temperature and humidity conditions and no intense drafts.

In some vehicles, especially premium vehicles, the paint surfaces are perfectly smooth. In their repair, special colorless varnishes with interlayer sanding are used and, finally, another sanding before polishing. The effect is really great, but this kind of repairs, including the final polishing, must be carried out in the spray booth, maintaining temperature and curing time regimes for subsequent layers.

The choice of polishing materials is huge, it is worth using materials from a proven manufacturer, guided by the quality, not the price of the products. It is not difficult to find examples of preparations and materials of different prices and of comparable quality. It is also worth checking new products introduced by manufacturers from time to time, as it may turn out that the product line used so far can be successfully replaced with a new and cheaper one.

Flat sponges are used for polishing with aggressive polishing pastes, corrugated sponges help to prevent holograms and are used in the subsequent stages of polishing with fine-grained pastes or polishing milk. Furs are used for the final surface finishing. Special sanding sheets (# 2000, # 2500 and # 3000) and sanding blocks are used to correct the paint surface and remove inclusions.

In painting practice, it is about obtaining the best results at the lowest possible cost and using only a few products. An example of a line of polishing materials that gives very good results at low costs are the Brayt T series products.

The polishing paste marked with T1 contains fine abrasive grain and works well even with not fully hardened varnishes. You can work with this preparation with the use of hard, soft, wool and felt sponges. The paste is intended for dry polishing, and in the final stage, the polished surface can be lightly sprayed with water. The product is very effective, easy to use and practically allows you to carry out the entire polishing process. After polishing is finished, you can, but do not have to, use lotions or protective preparations.

The product marked with the symbol T2 is a typical milk that allows you to remove surface defects. By using various applicators and the polisher's operating mode adjusted to the needs, it is possible to obtain a higher or lower cutting force of the varnish surface, refresh the coating of non-repaired elements and depth, as well as the freshness of the color.

The series is supplemented with T3 and T4 preparations. The former is a universal liquid that can be polished with an orbital polisher after hand spreading. A fairly durable shine is obtained and visits to the car wash are significantly reduced. In turn, the T4 preparation protects the paint surface against weather conditions, dust and chemicals used in winter on roads and in car washes all year round. The aforementioned agents work well in professional paint shops, but they can also be used by people who are not professionally involved in painting.

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